The best way to Prepare and Insulate Your Own Attic. The best way to air seal and insulate your atticso your home does not lose all the heat it needs to keep you warm this winter. Getting the attic up-to-speed with insulation is probably the most cost effect measures to assist your house become more power efficient.

Going to the attic usually means certainly one of three things.

1. Your ten years old and playing hide-and-seek.

2. Your 32 years of age and you will have yet another valuable heirloom to keep away for ever.

3. Your 54 yrs old and you’ve noticed a wet spot on the ceiling and you’re afraid the roofing is leaking.

All of these are good reasons to go into the attic, for the time being, let’s enter the attic to consider the insulation and determine if adding more insulation would be a good – house warming – lower the ability bill – action to take.

Building codes effecting insulation levels did not really begin to take affect till the early 1980’s. If your home was built just before 1984, there is a excellent chance that your particular attic has minimal attic insulation. Builders within the 1940’s failed to insulate much of anything, builders within the 1960’s filled the space involving the roof rafters with about 4 inches of insulation. Builders in the 1990’s installed 8 inches ( R-25 to R-30 ) of loose-fill Isoler Des Combles Perdus and by the year 2000, insulation levels had reached 12 inches ( R-38 ). Today, depending on the homes location, attics are being insulated with 16 inches of blown-in fiberglass ( R-49 ), cellulose, or shredded blue jeans.

Yes, shredded blue jeans, I’m serious, the ripped up blue jeans were being installed in a wall as insulation. Attic insulation is power efficient should you live in a cold climate and you’re continuing to keep the warm in as well as the cold out, or if you live in a warm climate and you’re continuing to keep the cold in as well as the warm out.

Dark colored, metal fiber appearing insulation is probably rock wool. A favorite attic insulation inside the 50’s and 60’s. Fairly effective rather than a health hazard. However, insulation granules which can be roughly ¼ inch square that feel like Styrofoam and contrast from mirror shiny to dark colored might be vermiculite asbestos. This can be bad stuff due to the asbestos content. My advise to attics with vermiculite is to get it professionally removed. Tend not to handle or disturb this insulation with no direction of the professional contractor.

Tip – Don’t mess with knob and tube wiring and don’t handle vermiculite. Call an expert. If your home was built prior to 1940, you should be mindful of knob and tube wiring. This can be clothed bound wiring that is certainly mounted on ceramic knobs as it runs over wood framing structures or runs through ceramic tubes if the wire runs through holes within the framing or building material. This type of wiring must be replaced by new electrical wiring by an electrician before insulating. Should you insulate directly over knob and tube wiring, the wire can heat and make up a fire danger.

One more thing, watch where you step while in the attic, only step on the truss or rafter framing lumber. Should you step involving the framing members you will probably stick your leg with the ceiling and possess one ugly hole to patch and something heck of a mess to wash up before the little women gets home. Tip – to supply a place to put your feet as you work on sealing the attic floor, take some plywood in to the attic which will reach over several rafters.

Tools and materials needed:

1. Basic face mask and light coveralls. Cloth or leather gloves and eye protection.

2. Drop light which means you can see what you’re doing and where you’re going. Tip – miner style head lights work good here.

3. For those who have a flue or chimney running up through your attic, or recessed lights or ceiling fans, you might need a small roll of light weight metal flashing, 18 to 24 inches wide. One set of tin shears.

4. Can of insulating expanding spray foam.

5. Tube of inexpensive general purpose caulk and a caulk gun. For those who have gas appliances, also pick up a tube of high temperature caulk.

6. Cardboard vent chutesfor placing involving the roof trusses on the same location as each eve vent or bird block. Count the number of you will need by counting the amount of eve or soffit vents from outside the house. The simplest tool to set up the chutes is by using a squeeze or tacker stapler.

7. Extra cardboard to use as barriers to separate areas where you may not want insulation.

8. 1/4 inch, #6 sheetmetal screws and a cordless drill. Tip – get self starting and threading screws.

The best way to prepare the attic before installing insulation:

1. Remove the stuff you have saved in the attic that were placed over the heated area of your house where you are likely to insulate. Items stored on the garage can stay. Boards that were put into the attic to hold items on also need to be removed. Tip – Possess a garage sale.

2. Consider the vent chutes and the tacker stapler and use a chute at each location where it comes with an eve vent. Fit the chute so insulation can not block the vent and a flow of air can move from the outside, with the eve vent, up with the chute and out to the attic. Attic ventilation is important for the fitness of your attic.

3. With pieces cut from the roll of metal flashing and the high temperature caulk, seal around the flue pipe where the pipe comes through the ceiling. Cut one half circular pattern from the fringe of the metal and install across the pipe like a collar, screw in place making use of the sheet metal screws by screwing through tabs bent up on the sides from the metal and screwing to the framing people in the truss. Place one half collar on a single side from the pipe along with a half collar on the other. Caulk the space between the flashing and the pipe with all the high temperature caulk. Tip – when you use the thin metal, wear gloves to avoid getting cut through the metal.

4. Now take the metal flashing as well as the tin shears and form a cylinder around the flue pipes and masonry chimneys and everything else that carries hot combustion gases. There must be a two inch air space between the hot flue as well as the new sheet metal insulation barrier. Make use of the sheet metal screws to hold in position. These cylinders need to look like extra tall turtle neck sweaters over a metal neck.

5. For those who have recessed lighting or canned lights ( exact same thing), locate them inside your attic. Older canned lights which you cannot cover with insulation will never be IC rated. IC stands for Insulated Ceiling. The IC rating ought to be clearly indicated on the label attached to the back of the light. Do not confuse a UL rating ( Underwriters Laboratory ) using the IC rating. They are certainly not exactly the same thing. A UL rating means the canned light has a cutoff switch installed which will turn the light off when it gets too hot. An IC rating means it is actually safe to pay for the canned light with insulation. Air space in between the IC rated light and insulation will not be needed. Tip – Now will be a good time for you to upgrade the recessed lights to sealed cans and IC rated.

In the event the canned light is IC rated, seal the light where it will come from the ceiling with general purpose caulk – your ready to install insulation over the light.

When the canned light will not be IC rated, seal the light where it will come through the ceiling and any holes within the light body with high temperature caulk. Form a cylinder using the metal flashing and set it around the light body like you would a flue pipe leaving a two inch air space. Hold it in place with the sheet metal screws. This should look like a gardener that puts a wide open end bucket over his young tomato plants therefore they are protected against the cold. The plant is definitely the can light as well as the bucket is the sheet metal.

6. Locate any exhaust fans, there might be none, one or more. The fans should have a ridged or flexable round duct running from the fan for an exhaust point that puts the exhausted air outside rather than inside the attic. Make use of the all purpose caulk or even the foam spray to seal the fan body on the ceiling. Utilize the caulk to seal the holes inside the fan body. Be sure the duct is exhausting for an eve vent or a roof peak vent. Use the metal flashing and the foam spray to seal the exhaust duct towards the eve or roof vent. Keep the duct with wire or plastic ties to be sure that the duct will not fall down as time passes. An exhaust fan has a one of many ways flapper valve inside the exhaust fan body just before it attaches towards the duct. Because of the chance, inspect the flapper valve and ensure lint, dust, hair, moisture and gunk has not left the valve stuck open or glued shut. The flapper valve is a back flow restrictor, keeping cold or warm air from coming back down the duct to your house. Tip- Now will be a good time to replaced older noisy exhaust fans. I would recommend an exhaust fan rated at 100 cfm (cubic feet a minute ) or maybe more and on the quiet side.

7. Now consider the can of spray foam and apply foam to each and every hole where an electric wire, T.V. wire, or telephone wire enters or leaves the attic. Carry out the same for your plumbing pipes. There has to be vent pipes running up through the attic floor and out your roof. Foam in which the pipe comes through the attic floor. Do not foam in which the pipe goes through the roof.

8. Some homes, both older homes and newer, may have open framing spaces running from your attic floor down for the floor below. These are generally spaces that are caused by unneeded space after bathtubs or closets. They maybe caused by irregular framing such as a triangle formed in which a closet meets a hallway that meets a bedroom door. These open chases kkwzjo to be sealed with over just insulation. Take a piece of cardboard, make the grade to match over the opening, lay a bead of purpose caulk round the lip from the opening, lay the cardboard on top the the caulk and screw down with the sheet metal screws. You now simply insulate on the cardboard.

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